Historic Malacca - Reviving Old Memories 3

One of the traditional Malay houses in Kampung Morten, Melaka.






Kampung Morten is the only traditional Malay village survived amidst the bustling city of Malacca. Thank God, the Malacca government realised this and revived the Malay village to become a tourist attraction. This was the kampung I used to visit where my friends, Zubaidah Abdul Rahman and Azhari Md. Alif lived. Azhari was a year senior to me in sixth form. His father, Cik Gu Md. Alif, was teaching in SITC, Tg. Malim with my father and our families became close friends. Since the village is on the river meander, there were always floods during rainy seasons. Many owners sold their houses to live somewhere else. Those who braved the floods year after year, now enjoyed the development and attention given to this small Malay village.



Another beautiful traditional Malay house in Kg. Morten, Melaka.









I remember, to go out from this village to town, the villagers have to pass at the back lane of rows of Chinese shops where tragedy occured on 13 May 1969. During the racial riots in Kuala Lumpur between the Chinese and the Malays, the Malays here were under attack by the Chinese even though they were familiar with the villagers. This was a lesson to be learned where trust cannot be taken for granted. Even close friends can betray you when they have their interest to protect.


As always, I am fascinated with traditional Malay heritage and am proud of it. The traditional Malay houses in Kg. Morten were given a facelift. The Malays are houseproud people and their houses are well-decorated, well-maintained and well-kept garden. Those houses facing the river were lighted up at night, making a glittering sight for the river cruises. I was not able to go for river cruise this time but will do it some time in future when I return to Malacca.


The river cruise boats.







For Those who are interested to stay at the homestay in Kg. Morten, you can contact Penghulu Hj. Rahim Hj. Alimat at 012-2290848 or go to Lorong 2, Jalan Tun Mamat, Kg Morten, Melaka. I have the opportunity to visit the homestay which is clean and cozy and met the caretaker Puan Juriah Ismail. The rate is around RM55 per person.


Visiting Kg. Morten is so delightful. There is no more flood now. The embankment has been raised to make way for safe river cruise. The traditional Malay houses are restored to their former glory. There is also a traditional muzeum which houses Malay heritage called Villa Sentosa - the Malay Living Muzeum. It is worth visiting.





Air Keroh is a fairly new township which has grown into a suburb of its own. Air Keroh did not exist in the 60s. It was jungle and unaccessible to people. Today it holds a number of attractions such as golf club, Botanical garden, the recreational lake, crocodile farm, the famous zoo etc. The Botanical Garden was superb and beautiful. It was beautifully landscaped. Rumour said the wife of the present Prime Minister criticised the landscape when she came for the opening. It was an unbecoming behaviour of a wife of the Head of the country. Just wish that she could keep her mouth shut if she is not qualified in landscaping. Must be as stupid as her husband! Positive remarks would be more helpful.



Botanical Garden Air Keroh.







Anyway, the Malacca government has done a good job in developing this Botanical Garden. I enjoyed the walk but the heat was a bit too much and Juriah and I went for shelter at the Book Village. Much to my surprise, this is a serene place. I hope more people, especially students, came to visit this place. It was so quiet and an ideal place to write, ponder and create. There is also chalets for rent and camping site. I really felt like I was somewhere in a national park surrounded by trees, plants, birds and insects. This is a place worth visiting and to stay a day or two. I might do just that one day. To get more information, you can call the Manager, En. Amiruddin, Tel 06-2519181 or email kampung_buku@yahoo.com.my


We didn't go to see the zoo but we drove around Air Keroh. I like the lake view. There are so many other places I have to see but time was short and I have to make a move to see the mini muzeum in Padang Temu.









On my way to visit my brother, Mahir, in Padang Temu, I used to see the sign which says Rumahku Muzeumku ( My Home My Muzeum) and wanted to see for myself. So the next stop was this particular mini muzeum. I was really amazed at the large collection of Malay antiques accumulated through 30 years by Tn. Hj. Nordin Bin Hj. Ali, the owner. The small wooden house is bursting at its seams with brasswares, furniture, Malay weapons, porcelains etc. It was a mind-boggling scene and I was tickled to see the old things that I used to use or see when I was young. The owner does not charge anything for entry but unfortunately some irresponsible and selfish visitors stole some items which are expensive and rare. Hj. Nordin and his wife were not able to keep watch of the activities of the visitors. I wonder what went into the mind of those who stole. Don't they have some guilt feeling? There was a bottle meant for donation but as usual people don't appreciate something free and take advantage of the situation. Hardly anyone donated as a token of appreciation, instead things were stolen. If you are interested to see, please call 06-286 8896 and refrain from pocketing the exhibits. Just appreciate the rich heritage and give generous contribution for him to upkeep the place. We need to cooperate in this so that we don't lose our rich heritage.











The garden of My Home Muzeum, decorated by antiques pot, batu giling.












Part of the garden decorated by antiques pots and batu gilings.












Hj. Nordin, the owner, a former antique dealer. He accumulated his treasures for 30 years but regeretted that some of his visitors stole his valuable collections.












The traditional bridal chamber of the Chinese Straits born - the Baba and the Nyonya.




Some of his collections in the mini muzeum of Hj. Nordin.







My next visit was to St. John's Hill which I have not seen since I left school in 1960s.I am glad to see that it is kept and maintained well with information.

















The cannons at St. John's Hill.

We stopped at the Portuguese Settlement but I think it's a waste of time. There wasn't anything that show traditional Portuguese, unlike years ago. The houses have turned modern and it is just an ordinary village - no significant attraction. There is a Lisbon Hotel built there, so why bother to go and see everyday things that you can find just anywhere? What's there to see and what's there to be proud of? Maybe it's ok on Saturday night when they have Portuguese dance show. All the promotion about Portuguese culture is not so great after all.

We drove to Duyong to see the legendary Hang Tuah Well. The story goes that Hang Tuah himself dug the well and the water never dries up even in severe draught. The water is clear and cool and believed to have healing properties. There is a traditional Malay house there offering traditional massage.
















The traditional Malay house offering traditional Malay massage.



It was quite a tiring day and I was ready to go home to PD but there is one stop I must make. My father's and my oldest brother's graves are situated next to Hang Tuah's Mousoleum in Tanjung Keling. While on my way there, I can't stop but admire the traditional Malay houses that have become tourist attraction and posters for advertisement. These are the traditional Malay house in Lereh, about 2 km from Tg. Keling. Look at the front yard. As I explained in my blog My Adolescence, the front yard is covered with clean white sands bordered with flowers and plants which become the pride of the family. This is what I like about Tg. Kling Malay house. My dream was to have one like this by the river but it was not to be, but a dream.





The traditional Tg. Kling Malay house.








I drove past the mosque in Tg. Kling. This is one of the oldest mosques in Malacca. Pay attention to the design of the roof and the tower. Many new mosques have taken this Chinese influence design, for example the State Mosque, Al 'Azim and the Pengkalan Rama mosque, Fat'hur Rahman, and it has become the Malacca state identity.







The old Tg. Kling mosque.












The Malacca State Mosque, Al'Azim.















The tower of Masjid Fat'hur Rahman at Pengkalan Rama, Melaka.










The roof of Fat'hur Rahman mosque at Pengkalan Rama, Melaka.












The entrace to Hang Tuah Mousoleum in Tg. Keling.

I stopped to pay respect at my father's and brother's graves with Alfatihah and Al-ikhlas, cleaned the area and then visited Hang Tuah's Mousoleum in the same compound. Hang Tuah was the legendary Malay warrior during the golden age of Malacca Sultanate. There were many stories weaved around this worrior and his 4 close friends - Hang Jebat, Hang Kasturi, Hang Lekir and Hang Lekiu.

At Hang Tuah Mousoleum, Tg. Kling, Malacca

My day ended with a drive back to Port Dickson through Pantai Kundor and the highway, tired, satisfied and happy that I have fulfilled my goal.

See you again my lovely Malacca.

Historic Malacca - Reviving Old Memories 2

The old Malacca Club became a historic venue where the signing of Declaration of Independence was penned here by Tunku Abdul Rahman, the first Prime Minister. It's now known as the Independence Memorial.

The old godown turned restaurant and muzeum.

From Taming Sari Tower we walked down the road where there was once a godown, now has become a muzeum and a restaurant. This is the road I used to take after school. Next to it is the Maritime Muzeum, an interesting muzeum which housed a number ship replicas. It also exhibits maritime history of Malacca in 7 eras.

At the Maritime Muzeum or Muzeum Samudra, Melaka.

1. The famed Malacca Sultanate in 15 Century to 1511.

2. The Portuguese 1511 - 1641.

3. The Dutch 1641 - 1795.

4. The British 1795 - 1941.

5. The Japanese 1941 - 1945.

6. The British again 1945 - 1957 Malaysia independent.

7. Independenet Malaysia 1957 - till now.

The Maritime Muzeum or Muzium Samudra is built modeled after the Potuguese galleon (Flora De La mar) which sank in Straits of Malacca on 26 January 1512. The ship carried a great number of Malacca treasure plundered by the Portuguese but the valuable treasures were lost at sea. This is a good reminder to us all who love this country that once we lost our political power, we were nothing - a wake up call to the Malays.

I went looking for the old library which was adjacent to the main Stadhuys building, just below St.Paul's Hill. It is still there but has become the Architectural Muzeum of Malaysia. However fresh memories flooded my mind where I spent a number of hours browsing through books and did my homework there. The library then had limited number of reference books and it was not even airconditioned. But it was heaven to me. Walking up the hill to the Stadhuys, I am glad the State Government is taking good care of these historical buildings. The Victoria Fountain is still there and the place has become so attractive with colourful trishaws waiting for tourists.

Meeting place for locals and tourists at the Melaka Clock Tower.










The old Melaka Clock Tower.

The colourful trishaws waiting for tourists.

Juriah at the old Victoria Fountain near the Clock Tower, Melaka.

The replica of the original 15 century Malacca Sultanate Palace or the Kesultanan Melaka is an awesome wooden complex built with not a single nail used. The building comprises of 7 enclosed porches and sharply sloping roofs. The design is based on the description from the Malay Annals or the Sejarah Melayu. Inside the palace is the history of the Malay Sultanate which came alive. All young Malaysians, regardless of race should go there and read the history so that they realise the reality and be humbled by it.

The main entrance of the Malacca Sultanate Palace.

Nearby is the Malacca fortress, A' Famosa. I remember when I was in school, I used to see a tunnel in the remains of the fortress. Legend has it that the tunnel connected St.Paul's Hill with St. John's Hill in Ujong Pasir. But now the tunnel is sealed and cannot be seen anymore, more for safety reason.

The Malacca fortress or the A'Famosa or the Porta de Santiago with St. Paul's Hill as background.

Portuguese cannon.

We climbed St. Paul's Hill just behind the fort. this was the place where I used to meet boyfriends or girlfriends. The windy hills made it a relaxing place to sit and chat. Bear in mind that dating at that time was a very innocent event in open environment. I bought a water colour painting of Malacca clock tower from the artist, Johari at RM30, a very reasonable price. You can find him there peddling his beautiful paintings which could be a good present for friends or family members.

The water coulour painting by the artist, Johari, at St. Paul's Hill.

The Dutch cemetry on St. Paul's Hill.

According to history, Parameswara, the prince of Palembang who was ousted out by Majapahit in 1389, ran to Temasik (Singapore) Muar and Bertam Ulu in Melaka. While hunting, he sat leaning on a tree where he witnessed his strong hunting dog was kicked into the river by a tiny mouse deer. Then he asked the name of the tree. It was Melaka. Hence he named the state he ruled as Melaka. The Melaka trees are still planted adorning the city.

Actually the historic places in Malacca are mostly centered around Banda Hilir. The big football field has gone, replaced by modern buildings. From the old Malacca Club, a short distance away you can walk to the replica of Malacca Sultanate and pay RM 2 for entry. Just outside the palace, there is the fort and St.Paul's Hill. You can descend St.Paul's Hill either at the fort or at the Library. If you descend the hill at the fort, then a short walk will let you see the rest of the Stadhuys which mostly housed muzeums. There is the Melaka trees where an old plane of the Airforce as exhibited - Twin Pioneer CC MK 1 donated by the Malaysian Airforce. I remember very well the old Hongkong and Shanghai Bank where my former nextdoor neighbour in Tg. Keling (Bang Saleh) worked faithfully until he retired-only as a peon! The bank gave him only a bicycle which he treasured and looked after so well. He was a very loyal worker but was never offered a better post inspite of his long service.

The old Hongkong and Shanghai Bank.

Around this area where you can find the clock tower, crafts, information, art galery, old church etc. In fact from here, you can walk to Jongker Street to see the antique shops, the old Kg. Hulu mosque and other attractions. Getting on foot is easier than driving as parking place is not easy to find especially during holiday seasons. I didn't visit the part across the river but will do it the next time when opportunity knocks.

Malacca, Sleepy Hollow no more!

Historic Malacca - Reviving Old Memories 1

At Taming Sari Tower, Malacca.

I spent my young days in Malacca, at Kampung Kelongkong, Tanjung Keling since my father retired in 1952. My secondary school and my sixth form days were in Malacca town (Blog on My Adolescent and Early Adulthood). At that time Malacca was known as the 'Sleepy Hollow'. The town was uncomplicated and very accessable. But now I find it a nightmare going round the city of Malacca. I cound't even find my old school - High School which is now tucked and sandwitched by new buildings and the school ground is so congested with buildings - the spacious padang has gone!

I have been back to Malacca every now and then but it was totally for visits or weddings. I decided to devote 2 days of my in early 2009 to see the place where I grew up and experienced such unforgetable memories. But 2 days weren't enough to cover the interseting places and internalise the changes in Malacca. My trip from Port Dickson was 0n 5 January 2009 took almost 2 hours in leaisurely drive through the kampung route to Linggi, Masjid Tanah, Sungai Udang, Tanjung Minyak and to Lorong Pandan to pick up my sister-in-law, Juriah, to be my guide.

The old Chinese temple at Hang Li Poh Well, belived to be the earliest temple built and used by the Chinese who came to Malacca during Sultan Mansor Shah's marriage to Hang Li Poh.

The Hang Li Poh or King's Well at Bukit Cina, Melaka.

At Hang Li Poh's well - sealed, though we can still see the well water.

An amazingly huge old bunga tanjung tree at the Chinese temple and the Hang Li Poh's well.

Our day started with a visit to Hang Li Poh or King's Well in Bukit Cina. This well was dug by the order of Sultan Mansor Shah for his Chinese wife Hang Li Poh (1458-1477) for her daily use.It seemed the well water has never dried even during draught. Legend has it that whoever drinks the water, no matter where one goes, he/ she will return to Malacca. However, the well is sealed now - sorry, no more such priviledge! In 1551, the Malay worriers fought against forengn invaders, the Portuguese, and poisoned the well water killing a number of Portuguese in 1551. The same tactic aws used by the Dutch when they wanted to conquer Malacca (1606) from the Portuguese. When the Dutch conquered Malacca, they realised the importance of the well and subsequently built a wall, guardhouses and put cannons to protect it. Unfortunately when the British defeated the Dutch and ruled Malacca, the well was neglected. But today it is well-maintained and has becoame a tourist attraction. If you visit and drive during high season (school and public holidays, weekeneds), it is better to come early morning as there are no proper parking place - the road is narrow.

The Selat Mosque of Pulau Melaka.

The Selat Mosque tower for azan.

Juriah at the side of the Selat Mosque of Pulau Melaka.

I wanted to see Pulau Melaka, a reclaimed land connecting to the mainland by a bridge. Though it is ready a long time a go, there is still no takers and the rows and rows of shop buildings are still unoccupied. But there is a beautiful mosque, the Selat Mosque of Pulau Melaka is being used especially during Friday prayers. The mosque juts out into the sea and the beautiful architecture is so pleasing to the eyes.

The unoccupoied shophouses of Pulau Melaka.

Malacca river from Dataran Merdeka opposite Pulau Melaka.

View of Malacca from the deck of Taming Sari Tower.

Menara Taming Sari is a new attraction in Malacca. We paid RM8 for senior citizens to go into the rotating viewing deck to 80 meters high. From the top, the view of Malacca is quite breathtaking which we can see as far as 5 km, including theiEye On Malaysia which is about 25 meters high. But I hardly recognised the old landmarks which were familiar to me once upon a time. For further inquiries, you can visit website http://www.menaratamingsari.com/ or call 06 2881100/06 288 3366.