In Al-Haram first floor, waiting for Asar prayer.
Daughter Maz at Saii area on the second floor of Al-Haram Mosque. Quite empty for most people prefer to do their Saii on the original ground floor. But situation is different during Haj. It's as crowded as on ground floor.
Taken from second floor overlooking the original Saii from Safa Hill where the actual rock is but now being walled by glass to prevent further abuse from pilgrims. The area from Safa Hill to Marwah Hill was the place where Siti Hajar, wife of Prophet Ibrahim ran back and forth looking for water for her son, Ismael. Hence the Zam-Zam well was created by Allah not far from here, near the Kaabah, a few meters away.
Taken on the second floor where the Tawaf begins and ends - a longer walk 7 times around Kaabah for Tawaf but not crowded and very peaceful.
A serene place to communicate with Allah in your heart.
I took a sneak photo of Maz in front of Kaabah after our Tawaf.
Daughter Maz reading the Quran while waiting for Asar prayer on the ground floor of Al-Haram Mosque.
In 2009 when I returned from Haj, I did talk to God silently saying that I had no intention to come back to Mecca for the next 3 years. I didn't have the desire to go Mecca in 2010 and 2011 even though my traveling companion, Sharipah, did her Umrah in 2011. But in 2012 when Maz expressed her desire to do her Umrah with me, I said yes and made all arrangements with expenses paid by her. We left Malaysia 0n 28 February and returned on 9 March 2012. A separate arrangement was made for the two of us to stay at Hilton Tower in Mekah which was quite convenient to go to the Grand Mosque, Al-Haram.
Shaza travels and Tours in Ampang did a good job with efficient system of checking in their Jamaahs in designated hotels. We didn't have to wait long. Entry to Jeddah was at the Haj terminal and was quite swift compared to few years back. With small group of 32 Jemaahs, there was ample space in the bus for comfortable traveling.
I did feel a lot of difference in the level of energy. I did my Umrah more than a dozen times since in my fifties and sixties. To avoid boredom, most time I went to Tanaem for niat umrah to perform umrah in Mekah. It was good and spiritually fulfilling on top of having brisk walk for the Saii as healthy exercise. But these last couple of times, age really has caught up with me. I didn't have the stamina any more and resistance was low. During my Haj, coughing and flu dragged on for quite a while till long after I came back home. This time, since the stay was short, I caught flu and cough on the last day. Long travel, lack of rest and heat pushed Maz to suffer flu on the third day of our stay in Mecca.
The new big shopping mall next to Hilton Hotel just ouside Al-Haram compound.
I saw very little improvement since my last Haj. What I saw was aggressive development around the grand mosque. Old buildings are torn down and new modern ones are being built. So dust flies everywhere. What makes matters worse, Mecca was packed with pilgrims and very few were conscious of health. Malaysians have been advised to be prepared and wear face masks but I can count with my fingers the numbers that bothered to do so. I just do not understand the attitude. Though face masks do not guarantee that one can keep away from flu attack, it can help to reduce the risk. What irked me most was the selfish attitude. They coughed without covering their mouths or without using face masks, especially in closed aircond buses and in air plane. Another disgusting behaviour was, they blew their noses when people were eating, so biadap. These are simple common sense and good manners. Fardhu Kifayah in Islam encourages thinking and caring about other people's well-being. This was not well-stressed but most time I heard was 'don't let your hair shows', 'cover yourself till below your breasts', etc, etc. I guess this is one of the many reasons why many non- Muslims are confused with the religion. They assume the religion is reflected by the behaviour of Muslims. In actual fact many, many Muslims do not adhere to the real teaching of Islam, except stressing on the superficial exterior.
Saudi Arabia is a rich oil country. Allah has blessed this country with much wealth but personally I think SA does very little in term of Fardhu Kifayah to contribute to the well-being of the pilgrims. Instead they build big modern shopping malls and luxurious hotels. Jeddah airport is congested and no comfortable place for prayer, the RR en-route to Mediona is still in deplorable condition (the mosque is dirty and has not been swept for weeks, I think), Beggers (usually deformed individuals) lying around on the steps and as well petty sellers at Jabal Rahmah, blocking the path up the hill. I wonder why the SA government doesn't open enough welfare homes and take all these poor beggers (usually not locals) and put them in the Homes instead of letting them loose and being made used by begging syndicates there. The sight is really pathetic.
The ladies rushed to Zam-Zam water coolers to get drink. There is no such thing as Q, first come first serve.
There is obviously lack of manners, gentleness, consideration for others and order. Everybody fights for himself or herself only, to the extend of trampling, elbowing or pushing others away. Nobody seems ever heard of queuing system. You can see this at the struggle to kiss Hajartul Aswat, at Zam-Zam water pipes or even during Tawaf. Their behaviour is so rough which is contrary to the teaching. They really smeared the beauty of Islamic teaching.
We were brought to a date farm to buy whatever we wanted to take home. That's another place where there is no Q system to pay. Everyone just rushed and elbowed their way to the two cashiers to pay, most are Indonesians and some Malaysians. Maz wanted to give up and just left everything there but fortunately she caught the eyes of the cashier and he served her. The situation was like fighting for food during famine-eat or die!!
Shaza's food arrangement in Medina was a disaster. We have to fight for food with a big group of Indonesians. Maz and I and many Malaysians resorted to buying food outside for the 3 days we were there. Going to Raudhah was another nightmare. How can one pray at a tiny space when everyone is fighting to pray there. There was no patience, respect and tolerance. I just made a simple doa which I know Allah hears me and got out of the madness. The more aggressive Indons seemed to monopolize the place with some unwanted Pakistanis and Iranians and Turks who were not supposed to be there with us. They were all selfish Muslims. I have been there so many time and things have not changed much. I really missed the Umrah times I had in early 1990s during low seasons where I was able to pray in peace at Raudhah, at Kaabah and at Hajaratul Aswat.
In the bus, the ustaz in charge reminded us to talk about all the good things about our Umrah trip and I was glad somebody responded saying ' Ustaz suruh kami cakap bohong?'. That was good. We were always told to say all the nice things and to hide the unpleasant which in actual fact we were encouraged to blind ourselves to the truths and live in denial. Is that what the teaching is all about? As long as we keep on denying the truths no matter how bad, there is little effort to improve.
Coming up the narrow steps of Jabal Rahmah, outside Mecca at Arafat.
Daughter Maz and me before climbing Jabal Rahmah. I have not climbed this hill for years but did it for Maz. Though this is her second Umrah, the first one was done 18 years ago.
Maz on top of Jabal Rahmah overlooking Mecca.
A sign board warning pilgrims of what Jaaranah mosque and Jabal Rahmah are not.
Saudi Arabia is taking things for granted.No matter what, pilgrims will still come even though performing Haj and Umrah are increasingly harder because of the huge number of pilgrims merging into Mecca and Medina all year round. Providing comfortable services to pilgrims seem not a priority. The SA government estimated 5 million people will come for Umrah all year round in 2012.
Daughter Maz under the big umbrella at Masjid Nabawi compound. Beautiful, clean city being marred by thoughtless pilgrims who dirty the place.
For those people who will perform Umrah or Haj, please take heed of my experiences. Take care of your health so that at the same time you take care of others. This is ibadah. Avoid being selfish and self-centered.
One more thing, I hate going to toilets in airplane when there are so many pilgrims. They wet and dirty the toilets. Many Malaysians are not toilet trained. Islam allows simple ablution for prayer in situation like in airplane but many insisted to wash themselves in toilets. Hence the dirty and wet toilets which is quite dangerous. We should stop being closed-minded.
Thank you Maz for taking me to Umrah. May Allah bless you with good fortune and much happiness.
Islam is not only about aurat, it's about a way of life.
3 comments:
As Salam,
I came across your blog while searching for images of the new extension of Masjid Haram to show my to my children. I was just back from performing the haj and I totally agree with what you wrote here...100% true!
Have a nice day and wassalam :)
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