Saturday, September 1, 2012

Tasek Bera, Pahang

After spending a few days for Aidilfitri with the families, I took the opportunity to go and visit Tasek Bera with sister-in-law (former) Kathy/Kak Nor from Adelaide from 27 - 29 August 2012. One way journey from Port Dickson was about 186 km but we took almost 4 hours to reach there as I drove slow and stopped a few places to rest and bought food and petai.
Arriving at Tasek Bera gave us such pleasant surprise. The tasik is so stunningly beautiful, so unique, and so mysterious, unlike the normal lakes we usually see everywhere. It was tranquil, serene, quiet and calm with the two of us as the only guests at the resort. We encountered a few people who went there to fish and returned to their homes when they were done.
Tasek Bera is included in Ramsar Convention treaty which was signed in 1971 in Ramsar city, Iran. Ramsar Convention was the Convention on Wetlands of International Importance. The mission of Ramsar is ' for the conservation and wise use of all wetlands through local and national actions and international cooperation, as a contribution towards achieving sustainable development throughout the world' (http://www.ramsar.org).
Tasek Bera (note: spelt as Tasek, NOT Tasik) is 35 km long and 20 km wide with lake water draining to Pahang river. It's the largest freshwater swamp in the Malay Peninsular which is rich in wildlife and vegetation. The ecosystem supports various animals and plants life and provide livelihood to the orang asli Semelai there.
Pockets of the lake are covered with pandanus plants, kercut grass, giant grass and many more plant species. To tour the lake you need a guide who will maneuver the boat expertly among the narrow growth of pandanus on the lake. Nature is playing it's role effectively to control the fast growth of the pandanus by burning it during dry and hot season. Imagine a fire bellowing up on top of a lake! The lake tour and the visit to Semelai village are the highlights of our visit. I also learned that the idea that the Semelai orang asli is poor is a myth. The government is taking care of them so well that they become vast landowners planted with rubber trees. A number have tertiary education but choose to live in their village earning a tidy income through rubber tapping. They drive big cars and own all the modern amenities but maintain their traditional way of living. There is a Semelai homestay too for the rugged who do not mind rough living with basic comfort.
I was really in awe of the lake, so different from the ones I have seen in different parts of the world. I have never known that the pandanus can bear fruits which look like buah cempedak and I saw a few when Ari, the guide, steered the boat through narrow opening to see the fruit (cannot be eaten). There is plenty of kercut grass grown which is expensive when sold in nurseries in KL. I am glad this area is protected or otherwise some greedy hands would bring lorries and tractors to harvest the kercut and other plants in the lake to sell in the cities.
Rose, Aris' wife and the cook, manager etc of Tasek Bera Resort cooked us ikan baung masak asam pedas. HHmmmmmm so delicious though I don't take fresh water fish but the gravy was superb!! She is really a good cook. Since the resort has limited rooms and only one chalet, advanced booking is necessary. We were lucky we went there during low season and rented the only chalet facing the fascinating lake for RM 140.00 a night but the chalet needs some repair and serious cleaning. Kak Nor and I felt so relaxed and blessed being able to see and enjoy the beauty and the magnificence of God's creation. Contact En. Aziz at 013-6231199 or 014-8447070. All telephone numbers in the website seemed not working anymore. I had to make calls to various departments before I got hold of En. Aziz.  The resort is managed by this nice husband and wife team but they need at least one more person to take care of the garden. Like many other places in Malaysia, abusing beautiful places is like an accepted practice. We were so disgusted with visitors who throw rubbish everywhere especially plastic bottles. Kak Nor and I took just a few minutes to collect the rubbish in 2 huge plastic bags. A signboard indicating charges for entering the resort and the lake was erected there but no sign of anybody collecting it and no checking. What a farce!! Level of awareness and responsibility to take care of the environment is so low among my fellow Malaysians, though many are educated. Unfortunately when they go to foreign countries like Singapore, they comply but in their own country they make a mockery of it. It's like, taking care of your neighbours house but shit on your own doorstep. Come on Malaysian government, be tough to teach these people a lesson.
Kak Nor and I stayed overnight in my apartment in Post Dickson and from there we drove towards Kuala Pilah taking the road to Bahau and to Kuantan. Don't go into Bahau town, follow the signage and go through Jempul to Kuantan and there will be a sign Tasek Bera. At the Tasek Bera entrance, there's a complex where you have to register and then be allowed to pass to Tasek Bera Resort and to the lake.
I definitely will go there again and bring my Japanese friend, Sashi, if she comes and visit again. I know she will love this place. For Malaysians who like to visit, to stay and to rave about foreign countries should make a point to visit and to learn and love their own country. Then only they will know the meaning of being a patriotic Malaysian.
The view of the jetty and lake from the restaurant. Good place to relax and enjoy the serene lake.

Arowana fish, a threatened specie, very expensive but forbidden to take back if caught. You have to throw it back to the lake for it to breed. But how many people would do this, I wonder? 280812

Kak Nor enjoying the gentle breeze of the lake during lake tour guided by Ari. 280812

Nature's way of control. The wild pandanus caught fire when it's hot and dry.  280812


Burnt pandanus. Imagine fire on the lake. 280812

The Semelai people catching fish 270812


Tasek Bera jetty from the lake. 280812

The jetty to the Semelai village by the lake. 280812

Semelai homestay- very basic.

Ownership of cars is common among the Semelai orang asli.

Kercut grass by the lakeside.

Kak Nor attempted to clear the rubbish thrown at the resort ground by stupid, irresponsible people. 280812

Helping to sweep the leaves from steps to the jetty. 289812

Kak Nor with the lady park rangers at Ramsar Centre. 290812


With sister-in-law, Kak Nor at the Ramsar  Visitors Centre. 290812

Gliding  through a narrow opening among the pandanus plants on the lake. 280812

Fruit of the pandanus or rasau. Not eatable 280812


Another basic homestay in the Semelai village near the jetty.

Tasek Bera in the morning with simmering morning sun. 290812

Seriously photographing the rasau fruit. 280812

The Tasek Bera jetty on calm waters.

At the balcony of the chalet overlooking the lake. 270812


Fascinating and haunting Tasek Bera from the chalet. 290812


Road map to Tasek Bera (from internet).
Personally, it's worth a visit though the road is narrow country road, far and lonely through oil palm plantations. I am glad I did it though many commented that there is nothing to see in Tasek Bera. This comment shows ignorance. But at the same time I am glad there are not many tourists. It would keep the place safe and intact.
I will visit again some day especially when I have foreign friends with me. I am sure Sashi, my Japanese friend would love this place.

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